3sat Documentary 2025
Swiss watches are globally regarded as the benchmark for precision, innovation and exclusivity. This film takes a look behind the scenes of Switzerland’s most prestigious industry and inside the luxury watches that fetch millions at auction.
A Geneva-based start-up wants to revolutionize the competitive luxury market with sustainably produced watches. The threat of US tariffs looms, and the industry will have its resilience tested. The next generation, hand-picked and more inclusive than ever, is hoping for a future.
Direction: Maria-Christina Degen
Script: Maria-Christina Degen
Producer/Production: 3sat/SRF
Editor: Peter Karlaganis
Camera: Camille Cottagnoud, Paul Teverini
Redaction: Lisa Röösli
Editorial Management: Nicole Pallecchi
Photo credits: Camille Cottagnoud
When the Geneva Watches and Wonders trade fair opens on April 1, 2025, everything still appears calm. The shock comes just days later: the U.S. announces punitive tariffs of 31 percent. No sooner had the Chinese market begun to recover from its slump than another serious challenge emerged. The U.S. is a vital export market for Switzerland, particularly for luxury watches. When the watch industry stumbles, the effects ripple through the entire Swiss economy. Swiss watches are seen as the gold standard for precision, innovation, and exclusivity. “Swiss Made” is more than a label, It is a hallmark of excellence and trust. Each year, the most exceptional timepieces are honored at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix. Often called the Oscars of the industry, the event draws global attention.
Switzerland remains the global leader in classic watch exports. Brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breguet, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, and Breitling are more than luxury items, they are symbols of status, craftsmanship, and long-term value. Since the pandemic, around 700 brands and more than 60,000 employees have benefited from a renewed appreciation for high-end mechanical watches. While past crises have triggered layoffs or closures, the industry has a history of adapting. During the quartz crisis, for example, Swatch became both a commercial hit and a cultural icon. It marked a turning point in watchmaking history.
The turbulence of the industry hasn’t deterred Nicolas Freudiger, Cédric Mulhauser, and Singal Depéry. In 2020, the three friends launched ID Genève, a watch brand built on sustainability. Their timepieces are made from recycled steel and grape pomace left over from wine production. Even the packaging, crafted from algae or mushrooms, is fully compostable. Their mission caught the attention of Hollywood star and environmental activist Leonardo DiCaprio, who joined as an investor. The endorsement brought major visibility and with it, high expectations. Now the newcomers must prove themselves in a fiercely competitive market filled with established giants.